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Trek Notes - SpainCamino de Santiago
Camino de Santiago Walk - Part 1General Information Itinerary
Day 2 We drive the first few, steepest kilometres to Orisson to start our pilgrimage. Magnificent mountain views and finally the southern side of the Pyrenees – snow peaks in June. First two hours are gently up a little travelled mountain lane. Now come three hours of mountain track. The last part of this is up and over the Col of Lepoeder, a fair puff. Picnic lunch and descent to much-fabled Roncesvalles where most Spanish pilgrims start their journey. We sleep in the hotel in Burguete, adjacent to Roncesvalles, the village where Hemingway gathered material for Fiesta, the Sun also Rises. Walk: 11½ miles
Day 3 We drive (2mins) back to Roncesvalles to the true starting point of the Spanish pilgrimage, then slowly descend on foot through ultra-rustic sub-Pyrenean landscape, punctuated by stately stone-built villages. Picnic lunch then one of several hops from one section of the Camino to another. This morning we were in Navarre; this afternoon we travel 2½ hrs into La Rioja, to San Millán de la Cogolla where we stay in comfort in the hospedería at the beautiful Monasterio de Yuso. Walk: 9 miles
Day 4 San Millán lies a little south of the main Pilgrims’ Way.A short drive to Nájera brings us back again. We walk through red sandstone then wide, rolling country to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Vines yield to irrigated crops, then wheat. We stride on open tracks and lanes, climbing finally to a newly built golf course! Lunch in a village café. Walk on to Santo Domingo and our lodging place, the renowned parador that started its long career as a medieval pilgrims’ hostel.A live hen and cock are kept in the cathedral here (on temporary tours of duty). Walk: 12½ miles
Day 5 A drive (1/2 hr) to Villafranca Montes de Oca and near-mountainous country. We climb through small oaks into pine, passing the monument to those killed by firing squad in the Spanish Civil War. An ambling descent by a rural ride through pines leads to the shallow valley sheltering the woodland monastery of San Juan de Ortega. Monastery church and the tomb of the saint are exquisite (top Gothic). Picnic lunch in woods and a short walk into open country. The day ends with ½ hr drive to splendid Burgos where our modern hotel was once an aristocratic mansion. Independent dinner. Walk: 10 miles
Day 6 Brief drive to Rabé de las Calzadas to begin a longer day for those who choose to walk it all. There are some pulls up, one brief but stiff descent, and very little shade; but the lofty country, alive with skylarks, is an inspiration for many. We picnic above the village of Hontanas. The stoutest walkers continue to the ruined monastery of San Antón and on again to Castrojeriz. Lodgings here are simple but friendly. Walk: 17½ miles Day 7 There is an early climb (fine views) then down again to cross the River Pisuerga by medieval bridge, pausing in the village of Itero de la Vega. Picnic lunch in a little park at the entrance to Boadilla, a village rich in enormous dovecots. The afternoon walk follows the 18th century Canal de Castilla, offering a first intimation of the great and painful plains to come (which, mercifully, we shall skip), and ends with the outstanding pilgrims’ church of San Martín in Frómista (top Romanesque). A great leap of 60 miles by road to León. Our hotel: the parador of San Marcos, flagship of the chain, a 16th century pilgrims’ hostel with 20th century extension and one of Spain’s finest facades (top Plateresque). Walk: 15½ miles.
Day 8 Rest day or interchange. Those leaving the walk here drive to Valladolid for their homeward flight. Those staying on rest up in León, (top Gothic cathedral has best stained glass in Spain) and nearby, in San Isidoro, are some of Spain’s finest and most intriguing medieval paintings. Adam or Gaby will act as guide. Independent lunch. A second night in the parador of San Marcos, with drinks and dinner, to meet newcomers. Part 2 Day 2/Day 9 We drive half an hour to the medieval bridge at Hospital de Orbigo, scene of a famous jousting exploit in the Middle Ages. Our walk takes us up out of the wide plains and into a succession of lowish hills with a far-away feel. We picnic in distant view of the cathedral of Astorga. Dedicated walkers may continue into town to our functional but very acceptable hotel in the (pedestrian) main square with historic town hall. Independent dinner. Walk: 11 miles Day 3/Day 10 We walk out through the old town, down into the valley and make our way to the substantial and well-preserved village of Castrillo de Polvazares, once capital of the fascinating Maragatos people who wore bowler hats and worked as muleteers all over Spain. Now the trail begins to rise, very slowly, and continues to rise for the rest of the day, often on country lane, with mountain views appearing. We picnic at the edge of oak woods. Rabanal del Camino, where we stay, has an English (supported and staffed) pilgrims’ hostel. We stay in the grander but still modest Posada. Walk: 13 miles. Day 4/Day 11 Up, up, up, though never steeply, to the Cruz de Hierro or Cross of Iron, the highest point of the Camino. Gorgeous mountain views.Vernacular architecture shifts to slate and wooden balconies. Lunch in a local restaurant in El Acebo, the most attractive village of the day. The walk ends here; we drive on (30 miles) to Villafranca del Bierzo at the foot of the Bierzo mountains, entry point into Galicia. We stay – and dine - at the modern parador. Walk: 10½ miles. Day 5/Day 12 Much of the long climb into green Galicia follows the road. We avoid it, driving up and over to visit O Cebreiro, Celtic village with rich pilgrimage associations. The walk begins in Triacastela, (1¼ hrs total by road). It climbs up a little valley, pretty but on the steep side (this is the last big climb of the Camino). There are few people but plenty of cows in shadowy old sheds. Later come upland views, and a descent tothe little town of Sarriá, visible from far away. We stay in a modern if, functional hotel, Sarriá’s best, on the Camino and beside the river. Independent dinner. Walk: 10½ miles. Day 6/Day 13 Out of the front door, and up through Sarriá’s old town for another day of woods, pastures and upland valleys. Soon there is a climb, occasionally moderate, never severe. The hamlets are tiny, often decrepit, with striking reticulated slate roofs on sheds and houses. We picnic en route. The walk ends with a sharp descent of 45 minutes to the river Miño, the steepest part on asphalt. Beyond the (dammed) river rises Portomarín, a surprisingly attractive new village built for those evacuated for the reservoir. The fine old church was moved up the hill stone by stone. We stay at an inn. Independent dinner. Walk: 15 miles. Day 7/Day 14 We drive 1½ hrs to the Monte del Gozo, from which pilgrims got their first view of the cathedral, throwing themselves on their knees and giving thanks. The views are largely obscured by eucalyptus now, far from romantic. We walk the short stage into town, through suburb into ancient city and the majestic Plaza do Obradoiro at the foot of the great cathedral – (top Romanesque), in 18th century cladding (top Baroque). Our lodging is the magnificent Hostal dos Reis Catolicos, founded by Ferdinand and Isabella in 1501 (top Plateresque portal), now a parador. Independent lunch; final dinner in the parador. Walk: 3 miles. Day 8/Day 14 There will be time for a stroll and possibly a bite of lunch before we make the short hop to the airport.
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